At Samos we stayed in a huge, municipal refugio, a dormitory for 80 to 90 pilgrims. It turned out to be a mistake. A group awoke about five A.M. and began laughing and joking with no thought for the other exhausted pilgrims.
A few nights later, we came upon another municipal refugio at Gonzar and we were hesitant to stay there because of our experience at Samos. Storm clouds were gathering and the next like place to stay was 7K ahead. We decided to take a chance.
The Gonzar refugio housed only 18 pilgrims, and we settled in for the night wondering if we would get a decent sleep. The next morning we were surprise to awake about seven and find that most of the pilgrims were already on their way, and that they had crept out silently.
Could the difference between the two refugios be explained as the difference between a city and a small town? In the city, (Samos) pilgrims were anonymous while in a small town (Gonzar) personal responsibility reasserted itself.
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